This trip is primarily planned as a multi-day canoe trip, with other activities at the end of the trip.
Trippers are:
Dave Seslar (sea kayak) (Driver - F150 pickup
Keith Finn (solo canoe) (Driver - Ranger)
Caroline Winkler (canoe with Kent)
Kent Fisher (canoe with Caroline)Bill Minot (sea kayak) (Driver - Jeep Cherokee)
Liz Baker (canoe with Karen)
Greg Karoly (canoe with Tom)
Tom Jones (canoe with Greg)
Brad Hickman (solo canoe)
Karen Finn (canoe with Liz)
Mike Wadkowski (canoe with Kitty)
Kitty Capasso (canoe with Mike)
Dave had gotten lucky and managed a 4 day, 3 night permit for the Okefenokee Swamp. Hurray! We have to put on Sunday at Suwanee canal entrance and take out Wednesday at Kingfisher landing. The remaining days will be spent as we see fit and the weather allows, with several of the trippers showing a strong interest in visiting the Florida Springs. We may also attempt to visit Cumberland Island.
FRIDAY DAY 1
Left Columbus approx 7:30 pm March 17, with a decision to stay in Beckly WVA that night. We stayed at the Beckley Hotel, where we would meet Tom Jones in the morning.
SATURDAY DAY 2
Left Beckley approx 9:00 am March 18, and arrived Laura Walker State Park at about 9:30 pm that night. Minutes after we pulled in, we met Brad Hickman (who was driving up from Tampa). It rained most of the night.
SUNDAY DAY 3 (DAY 1 of swamp trip)
Sunday morning started cool and clear, with all the rain passed on. We had to be on the water by 10:30 am (refuge rules) so we needed to get an early start. Despite average efforts, we were still loading boats at 10:30, so Dave arraigned for a Paid shuttle. This turned to be only 35.00 for a complete boat and everyone shuttle, so we were not too upset. The only drawback was having to be at the takeout by 3:00 pm Wednesday. The Suwanee Canal section of the swamp is pretty, but fairly artificial as compared with the rest of the canoe routes. There are low, bushy banks on either side that consist of spill from when the canal was dug out. Occasional breaks in the banks give you glimpses of the wet prairies around the canal. There is also a bit of motorboat traffic. There are 2 outhouse stations on this route, probably for the day-trip people. There was plenty of room for me to use my big 2 blade paddle, and I had no difficulty in keeping up with everyone. As usual, I had a preference for staying in the rear of the group. Dave spent some time giving elementary canoe lessons to some of the people, but everyone seemed to be doing ok.
The day took on face that I love about canoe touring. The miles slid by at easy, relaxed pace, the day was both beautiful and comfortable. My body fell into the rhythm of paddling and let my mind wander where it would. The stillness was occasionally shattered by the motorboats, but these would be gone by tomorrow.
Well before sunset we reached our platform. It seemed much smaller than my first trip here, probably because we had twice the people. I decide then that I would sleep on the platform, and forget about scrounging tent space. Others set about walking on the short trails around the platform and setting up their tents on the solid ground. I decided to read and think about cooking dinner. Dave, Kent and Caroline went back into the water to do some more paddling. Chairs were set, refreshments were found, life was good. Along about dusk, the mosquito's came out - enough to be annoying, but not enough to be a real distraction. I noticed both culex and anopheles biting me. I found the buzzing to be more irritating that the bite, I don't seem to be much affected by mosquito bites anymore.
Well, we had supper and settled in. Some people went to sleep fairly quickly, other stayed up. We had an argument whether you could identify owls by their calls (you can!). Finally, me, Dave, Bruce & Kent gathered all the food together (Fort Food) and sacked out on the platform. Mistake. Buzzing around head kept in a fuzzy half state of sleep all night.
MONDAY DAY 4 (DAY 2 of swamp trip)
After sunup, in a half awake - half asleep state, I thought my cat Tenspeed was bothering me. Woke up fully when I realized that Tenspeed was in Ohio, this was Georiga, and that there was a raccoon about the size of Tenspeed standing on a food box above my head and poking its head in my sleeping bag. I yelled HEY - it fled, but not very far. Thoroughly awake, I decide I didn't want to hang around the platform. I got in my canoe and paddled toward the west for couple of miles. Thought I saw either a otter or a muskrat, either is possible. Some nice warbler action early on also. Cranes were heard, but none seen. After being out a couple of hours, I came back and everyone was having breakfast. Had a swim, then some breakfast. Packed to go. Tonight's destination is Floyds Island.
Backtracked east on the Suwanee Canal until we hit the trail junction to Floyds Island, then turned northwest. Once away from the canal it got lots more swamplikefroggy best. Bright blue sky, little puffy clouds - day was perfect. Mike and kitty found a dried Gar skin, which they gave to me.
After some hours of the prairie area, we abruptly entered a twisty cypress creek. Soon we were past the cypress and in a
hardwood bottomland swamp. Although I was not aware of it at this point, I was paddling through a channel or inlet in Floyds island itself. Due to the narrowness of the channel,
I was doing the stand-up paddle routine when I spooked a gator. The stuff I read about gators not liking tall objects must have some merit, because 6 other boats had passed him and did not disturb him. When he saw me, the was alot of thrashing in the underbrush and a big splash. Scared me real good too. I almost joined the gator for a swim. Very shortly after this the channel ended in a circular pool about 25 foot across.
Floyds island is pretty good size. Mostly covered by large slash pine, live oak, magnolia & palmetto scrub. There is a very nice cabin about 200 yds from the landing. It is maintained by a Boy Scout troop and can be used by campers if they wish. Kent, Tom & Bruce elected to stay in the cabin while the rest of us camped at the landing. If we were doing the green trail we would have to portage across the island, but this not so for our trip. While I was poking around the cabin area, I found a large, dead tree stump that had been torn apart, probably by a bear. We also read in the logbook about a bobcat that was curious about what went on at the cabin and would watch the people there. The bobcat seemed to have been recently injured by the reports.
Dave & Caroline, Mike & Kitty all went canoeing on the other side of the island for a few hours, Bruce borrowed Bills kayak for the same reason. Nothing remarkable came up that evening, except for Gregs Doug stories. I do remember sleeping very well. (first good sleep since 3/15).
TUESDAY DAY 5 (DAY 3 of swamp trip)
Got up later than usual, and just lay there for while. Good to do nothing. Eventually packed up and decided to visit can.
Was walking into the clearing where cabin was when large cat runs in front of me. The bobcat stopped about 20 feet away and sat down. Remarkable. I had gotten a very blurred glimpse of one on Cumberland several years ago, but this was remarkable. He was short-haired, with a tawny-tan coat and medium brown spots. Paws were huge. Face fur swept down in a mustache look, and the ears were large with a long tuft at the end. I estimate he was about 30"" tall while sitting (very upright). Bruce said he got pictures of the guy, and I want a copy! After giving me and Bruce a good look, he took off into the woods.
After that, we packed up and got ready to go. While we were waiting to shove off there was a tremendous roaring noise form the channel. I did not think it possible, but a park service air boat came roaring down that narrow channel. We talked to the two guys running it for a while. They said the bobcat had been around for years and was curious enough people to not run away anymore. After some more chitchat we decided to get moving.
Back into twisty creek. I paddled this standing up most of the way. I had just made out of the twisty channel when the airboat started back. Decided to park it until they were gone. The swamp today was quite a bit like yesterday, open prairie with cypress hummocks. Large fields of swollen bladderworts were becoming common in this section. Also sighted one blooming fragrant water lily. This kind of stuff went on for the first 6-7 miles.
After about mile 6, things began to tighten up. We were into a more closed-in area with hedge-like vegetation on both sides, but still plenty of room for paddle placement. Then it got ridiculous. The sides moved in, the sky was replaced by low interlaced branches, and 10 feet in a straight line was a rarity. The big paddle was stowed, the little guy came out. At times, I was kneeling crouched across the thwart just to keep out of the branches. This went on forever. I called this section the herbaceous cave. There were no normal paddle strokes used. I grabbed branches, pushed off from trees, used 3 point turns to get around the twisty places. I think I took 3 hours to get thru the 1.5 miles of this vegetable maze. Boat, hair, shirt, shorts, everything was covered in leaves, twigs, moss and bugs. Finally thing began to open up, and I took a well deserved breather. What a mess. Memorable boating. Made the platform (found just after mile 9) all that more inviting. Pulled up to the platform, got some stuff out of the boat, walked off the stiffness. Several people had already taken showers, but I want a full body immersion. The big pool in front of the platform looked deep and inviting. I decided to go in. Asking people to watch my back for gators, I dove in. Mistake. The was about 4 feet of clear water, then the layer of detritus began. God only knows how deep it went, but it was weird. Not muddy or silty or slimy, it was like a deep layer of wet mulch. Got an overwhelming desire to get out. Took some time before I could haul myself out onto the dock. I was covered with bits of mulch. Decided to let water settle and take a cookpot shower. Much better decision.
Dave decided this would be burrito night. OK by me. After gorging on burritos, we watched the stars come out. Gorgeous.
Some of the best star action I have ever seen. Got out spotting scope and binocs and everyone had a look. This kept me up for quite a while.
WEDNESDAY DAY 6 (DAY 4 of swamp trip)
Got up, packed up. Heavy dew on everything. Mike & Kitty both tired out from constant raccoon rattling under the platform.
After breakfast, headed out onto the lake. A bit more wind than before, but nothing troublesome. The paddling here is all big wide channels and lots of water lilies. We had to move a little faster today because the shuttle pickup would be at 3:00. Again, just a perfect day. Bright blue sky and fleecy clouds. We got to see another airboat, this one smaller and not as loud. I don't recall anything startling today, just a montage of a perfect day reflected in the still, black waters.
Eventually, we got to the ramp at Kingfisher landing. We had plenty of time to unpack and organize before the shuttle arrived. After we got back to Suwanee Canal, we loaded our vehicles and said so long to Bruce, Mike and Kitty. They all had to get back to town. We, on the other hand, we going farther south. We were going to get to St Marys tonight.
Camped at Crooked River State Park. Not alot of bugs, and a shower felt nice. Caught Liz talking on the phone to Bruce, and taunted him.
THURSDAY DAY 7
Greg and I got up at 6:00 am so we could hot-foot into town and get stand-by for the day. Got stopped by a cop for speeding and illegal passing in a school zone, but he saw I was an ignorant tourist and let me off with a warning. Whew! We were the first in line and had no problem getting a day pass. Everyone gets to go to Cumberland. My day consisted mainly of light hiking and heavy duty snoozing.
After getting off the Island, we head for Blue Springs tonight.
We arrived at Blue Springs about 9:30 pm. Campground had one occupant, besides us. Karoline and I went for a swim before sleeping. I can remember lying on my back in the water, watched bats flick over my head catching bugs.
FRIDAY DAY 8
Went to Ginnie Spring in the morning and spent the day snorkeling the springs there. Everyone got outfitted as they pleased or could afford, and Dave and I bought weight belts. It turned out that Dave in his suit needed 27 lbs of lead to achieve neutral buoyancy. I found that I could dive to the bottom of the chasm of Devils Spring with no problem. We did the usual of starting in Devil, crossing the Santa Fe to July spring, then crossing back over to Ginnie spring, then downstream to Dogwood Spring. After a day of this, people were pretty much wiped out.
SATURDAY DAY 8
Today we snorkeled Blue Spring. I spent most of my time in the water, while others caught up on sleep or just general bullshitting. Lazy day, until about 4:30, when it was time to leave for north. I thought it would be a good idea to head through St Augustine on the way back north. Big Mistake. NEVER NEVER NEVER go near that town on a weekend!
SUNDAY DAY 10
Drive, Drive, Drive.
Important Places and Phone Numbers
Okefenokee Wildlife Refuge (912) 496-3331
(no camping, but 2 parks are near) (912) 496-7836
Laura Walker State Park (912) 283-4424
(north edge of Okefenokee State Park)
Stephen Foster State Park
(near Folkston, GA)
Cumberland Island Nat'l Seashore (912) 882-4335
Skidaway Island State Park (912) 356-2523
(near Savannah GA)
Savannah Hostel
Crooked River State Park (912) 882-5256
(near St Marys, GA)
Hostel in the Forest (912) 264-9738
(near Brunswick GA) (912) 265-0220
(912) 638-2623
Georgia Coastal Refuge Complex (912) 944-4415
Spirit ot the Suwanee Campground
Canoe Outpost
Ginnie Springs
Blue Spring
St Augustine Hostel
Suwanee River State Park
O'Leno State Park
Anastasia Rec Area
Sweetwater Lake Campground (SC)
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